Decoder installation is well described in worksheets packed with SOME brands, but others assume far more knowledge than users really have!
So…We’ve drafted a few “basic” rules that will guide new DCC’ers and perhaps remind seasoned installers, about good “installation practice”
As with all good “techniques” there are a few basic rules, a few important tools, and a couple of important checks to be done before the work begins.
Strange thing with lists – again we have ten subjects, five “preparation and resources, five “tips and techniques”.
We hope you find them useful…We’ve separated them into hyperlinked paragraphs, which effectively group common issues. Feel free to copy or download them if you find them helpful, and pass them on to any “new DCC’ers” that they may assist.
Please note that this section is a “Primer” only and a guide to the important issues. You will find far more comprehensive notes on specialised areas such as specific loco installs (or links to them) and specialised subjects like loco lighting elsewhere on the website.
If you find these tips useful, Email us and let us know. If you have a suggestion, criticism, change or other useful data, Email us, and we’ll do our best to integrate it into the site for the benefit of all DCC’ers.
Read everything
Of all the questions I receive by phone or in the 100+ emails that arrive on my desk via E-groups and customers every day, more than 99% can be answered by reading easily available information, and thinking it through.
Please don’t misunderstand… I genuinely enjoy corresponding with you and answering questions, but I also know that many frustrated modellers that have either become “stuck” in the middle of a project, or have made an error that “let the smoke out” and destroyed a decoder could have been able to enjoy a simple install and would already be running their newly decoder equipped loco if only they had just READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and FOLLOWED SIMPLE GUIDELINES in the first place.
So please…
• Read the manuals (if any) that came with your locomotive – Or - visit the makers website to look for a manual or disassembly chart if you don’t have one.
• Read the worksheet that came with your decoder. Read it properly. Much of what you’ll need is already there.
• Look at websites for installation tips – this is we hope a good example, but there are some really great “modeller” websites out there too. UK modellers should definitely take a good look at http://www.electricnose.co.uk/dcc/dcc.html or http://home.intekom.com/wurzel/DCC/index.html and several nice examples of high quality European prototype installs in several loco brands can be found at http://www.lolkebijlsma.com/ns2200_dcc.html. US modellers have many resources – some of the best are hosted by Decoder manufacturers such as TCS at http://www.tcsdcc.com/info/index.html.
• If you are STILL stuck email me – I’ll either respond by return with the answer, or if I don’t have it to hand, I’ll refer you to someone who does… Or so I can learn myself I’ll do the research for you and find the answers.
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Use the correct tools for the job
A good set of tools makes everything easier. You don’t always need to have all of them especially if most of your locomotives are DCC ready or relatively new in design - BUT without good tools the more complex installs will become difficult.
Here are a few of the key ones, however we strongly recommend you read the whole list in detail You’ll find my personal “must have” for good workmanship and reliable performance in the section The Modellers Workbench (What, why and how are all covered there).
• A good desk lamp or excellent lighting.
• A Digital Multimeter.
• A “Continuity tester”. This one is a VERY easy project for YOU to make. (Details and parts list in The Modellers Workbench section)
• Magnifiers or magnifying glasses.
• A high quality soldering Iron – Best is a “base station” type with temperature control. Expensive yes, but it will last a lifetime.
• High quality Solder. Yes, I regard it as a tool as good installation work is impossible without it!) My personal favourite is a 62% tin, 36% lead, 2% silver solder with a sharp melt transition, Solid to liquid at 179°C.
Click here for more details, or to purchase
• Quality wire Strippers. These CAN be the big “Alligator” type however only very high quality versions are suitable for the fine wire we use. We recommend the screw adjustable type as per this picture.
I’ve used this type for 20 years and they NEVER wear out! They are invaluable for stripping fine decoder wire and the super sharp cutters between the grooves mean on tool can do two jobs. They are available from DCCconcepts for $A20, $US15, £8 or €U11.
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Use the best materials
It’s hard to do a great install without a few specialised items that are actually quite commonplace. Here are a few I use everyday. A fuller explanation of most items in this list is given in the section “Useful materials”
• Kynar Wire. I love this stuff... Want to learn more about it? ------>>>>>>> Click here
• Solder Tip Reviver. This is a real “miracle cure” for soldering difficulties. I GUARANTEE that you will find soldering easier and better if you use it.
Want to learn more about it? Click here
• Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner. This tip cleaner eliminates the temperature variation associated with the wet sponge approach and does a better job as well!
Want to learn more about it? Click here
• SHRINK tubing. With all installations, insulation of wiring joints becomes important – the slightest touch of a wire to the chassis can destroy an LED or decoder, and many “Mystery” or intermittent faults are caused by the wire that’s inched or moved by the body shell when its installed contacting somewhere it shouldn’t be.
Want to learn more about it? Click here
• There are many more “Useful materials” that can make the difference between a failure, a good job and a great one. Please DO take a detailed look at the whole list – click here to be taken to Useful Materials
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Basic Universal wiring pre-check
This may NOT be quite what you expected. Looking at the decoder comes later... There are other things to check first!
(a) For DCC-Ready locomotives.
Remove the capacitor(s) if fitted. Please note – steam loco’s usually have only one, but recent diesel locomotives may have three on their PCB. . IGNORE all the talk about C-tick and suppression – the decoder will have enough onboard protection to cover this issue properly – but the decoder will NOT work its best if you leave the capacitor in – and some brands (Bachmann stands out) are nearly uncontrollable with some decoders fitted if the capacitor is left in place – ditch it!
Minimum fuss – you will have to un-solder any “chip” type capacitors, however you can simply snip one lead of the more conventional ceramic disc type. Just cut one lead with the side cutters. (Best method however is to remove the whole thing with the soldering Iron.).
Please note that there is NO need to add a wire link when the capacitor is removed, in fact you must NOT do so as it will create a short circuit across the motor. (The capacitor is installed across the motor leads and not in series with them).
FYI, the most common configuration on a loco also includes two “inductors” , one in series with each of the motor leads plus the capacitor across both motor leads. These Inductors have little or no effect and can be safely ignored and left in place
However be aware if you DO choose to remove them you will need to either replace them with a plain wire link OR wire the decoder outputs (red, black) directly to the motor. (Inductors are easy to spot – they are usually long and round with fine wire wrapped around them)
Check that all wheels that have pickups actually DO pick up power correctly. EVEN ON NEW LOCO’S. Invert the loco and, using a multi-meter OR a pair of wires attached to a normal DC controller, check that each wheel really does pass current to the pickups. Test every wheel combination. Even the best install will NOT perform well if pickup is not good.
Check that the decoder socket has not been badly soldered when the loco was manufactured. It is surprisingly common to find that solder or copper wire “threads” bridge the gap between pins on the decoder socket. This doesn’t affect the loco on DC but when you add a decoder, a short from any of the the four outer pins to the four “inner” pins can destroy a decoder – and will the loco manufacturer take responsibility for your blown decoder? …. NO WAY!
Check that the decoder pins will not short against the chassis once it is fully inserted into the socket, Close is TOO close – body pressure just may bridge the gap – SO - If they are close, then either
CUT the end off the pins or insulate the area well. I’ve seen many decoders destroyed by this design error! Again, the manufacturer will just shrug his shoulders at your dead decoder – so CHECK FIRST.
Check the lighting... There are a surprising number of supposedly DCC ready loco’s out there with bulbs that just won’t last when run on DCC voltages, and others where the lights will need re-wiring so you can use them properly with your decoder (turn on/off, set up mars lights, etc). Incandescent lamps give off a LOT of heat if not properly fitted with an added resistor to cope with DCC voltages and they are comparatively short lived too, DO consider changing to “Golden white” or red LED’s as appropriate – better quality lighting, lower current draw and a super reliable install will result.
WARNING – Some incandescent bulbs will get hot enough to damage your rolling stock or locomotives if you do not either add resistance, or program the decoder to limit voltage to the bulb. This damage will NOT be covered by the loco warranty! We strongly recommend that you lower your DCC track voltage to less than 13 volts if you do NOT want to modify wiring or replace all incandescent bulbs. We STRONGLY recommend replacing bulbs with LED’s for better results and longer, problem free performance.
Check the wheels again… Also be sure to check and adjust back-to back if necessary on every wheelset. They should be a minimum of 14.5mm, and personally I’ve found slightly better running through Peco in particular with 14.75mm.
Whatever you prefer, adjust and make sure they are ALL perfect before you add the decoder. Out of gauge wheel-sets cause intermittent shorts that shorten life and confuse the odd decoder - and of course they definitely add to derailment problems.
While you are at it, give the wheels a clean with a cotton bud soaked in something like alcohol or mild thinners. Ex factory wheels can have a coating of turning lubricant or even overspray from factory weathering which will negatively affect performance. It also tends to be sticky so attracts crud to quickly spoil current collection and running qualities!
Work out where the decoder might fit conveniently: Consider wire length. Consider added lighting if any. Think about getting the body back on, and where any extra wire length might safely go.
(b) For NON DCC-Ready locomotives.
Trace the pickup wiring: Be sure you know where ALL the wires go, as a missed wire can create a “sneak” path to the decoder and destroy it.
Check the wiring between tender and loco if it’s a steam loco, or between the 2 bogies/trucks if it’s a diesel or electric… you MUST make sure that connections are maintained to all pickups for best results, so be methodical.
Dump the Capacitors / suppression parts: (see note in section for DCC ready loco’s – same problems, same results, same fix – DUMP the suppression!)
Lighting wires: These can be a confused and confusing issue as they are often in parallel or series with the motor, or rely on reversal of voltage to interact on DC.
This means that almost certainly, all-new wiring, or at least a small PCB modification such as cutting or linking tracks may be needed in ALL non-DCC ready locomotives. Be patient. It can almost always be done simply if you take your time & think it through first!
Test for brush to chassis contact: Once you are sure that you know where ALL the wires go (a diagram helps memory) take the wires off the motor brushes and then test for any contact with chassis or pickups. Hold one meter probe on the brush, then touch each wheel, every part of the chassis. Repeat for other brush.
If contact exists, investigate: You might need to insulate the chassis so that the brush no longer touches it. You may need to remove a small amount of metal to make an insulating gap. You may need to cut a tag made from shim copper or phosphor bronze that the Mfr added to the motor to create chassis contact for DC running – there WILL be a way to insulate each brush – there is NO motor that cannot be modified, and most are easier than you might think!
If in doubt – email me and I’ll do my best to help . I strongly recommend the following websites for excellent advice in this area:
www.tcsdcc.com(US prototype)
http://www.electricnose.co.uk/index.html (UK modern image)
http://home.intekom.com/wurzel/DCC/index.html (UK Steam era loco’s)
Now do ALL the wheel and pickup pre-checks listed above for “DCC-ready locomotives”... DON’T forget to clean the wheels well too!
OK - At last… a bit about the The Decoder:
Size matters - Seems silly to say it – but almost isn’t good enough here!
Before you commit to a soldering Iron or cutting wires, check it REALLY WILL fit. It only takes a millimeter and the body won’t fit, or the pressure of the body on the decoder twists the chassis, rubs the drive shafts or the wires get tangled in the universals or gears – disaster!!
Check that there are enough functions: Lighting needs one wire for front light (usually white), another for rear lights (usually yellow), a third for interior lights (green) another for class lights (purple) etc, etc… Of course, steam loco’s have it a bit easier, but I think you get the point – PLAN
before you go too far, or buy the wrong decoder!
FOR A LINK TO A GREAT CIRCUIT THAT REALLY BRINGS AN “AVERAGE” LOCO TO LIFE AND GIVES YOU TWO ADDED LIGHTING FUNCTIONS FOR ANY DECODER - FOR ALMOST NOTHING – CLICK HERE!
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The decoder
Power handling ability, what the wires are, what the colours mean, what the important specifications are, good wiring practice and more.
POWER HANDLING - OK, so you have a decoder that says “two amp power handling” – what does that REALLY mean?
Firstly, understand that this is the total power draw that the decoder can handle. It’s the SUM of all active circuits… Motor drive + light + smoke unit etc.
Run anything to MAX and it’ll not last long – so do try to be a bit kind here, and balance things.
IE: If you have an inefficient motor that draws an amp or more pulling a train, be conservative with added functions. If your loco happily performs at less than half an amp, then feel free to add lots of lighting. Here’s a rough guide.
Here is a good rule of thumb
DECODER MOTOR DRIVE – Usually 1 amp – (sometimes more, sometimes less for small decoders. LENZ in particular rate their smaller decoders lower).
DECODER FUNCTION WIRE – Usually OK at 100~150Ma each, check decoder paperwork first –
EVERY time – it varies even in the same brand sometimes!
If you are NOT sure, double check or ASK: Best to be safe and plan well
Motors- Allow the following: (HO / 4mm scale). For Z/N/0 or larger, check!
• Open frame motor / older pancake style motor – 500ma to 1 amp is typical
• Can motor / modern (last 10 years manufacture) & loco in 4mm scale – from appx 100mA or 1/10th of an amp to max 1/2 amp. "Slipping" current rarely over 750mA.
Each lighting function – allow the following
• Incandescent bulbs = Max two per function – they can be as high as 100mA each, LED’s are usually less than 20mA, so max five per function.
• Smoke Units – designed for DCC = 100mA, but standard common models (ie Seuthe 22) = 200mA, so it MAY need TWO function wires working together to do its job well and not destroy the decoder. (Use white AND yellow for example). NOTE: Current TCS decoders will tolerate 250mA so are totally safe with most smoke units. Again, Lenz tends to have lower power handling on its functions.
• Memory wire circuits – usually about 50mA safely. (Note: you MUST limit the cirrent available to memory wire - "over-power" it and it will lose effectiveness. Use the memory wire manufacturers spec and follow it for best result)
• Solenoid – wildly variable, but from 200mA to 750 mA for big/low impedance coils.
• Digital uncouplers – Motor driven will be less than 100mA, but if they are relay driven it will depend totally on the relay impedance - CHECK first.
What are all the wires for?
Like most things, this looks complicated but it is really simple, and an excellent set of standards means that the coloured wires do the same on every decoder.
• RED WIRE – this is to pick up power from the track. Traditionally, this should be connected to the pickups that collect power from the RIGHT rail
• BLACK WIRE – this is to pick up power from the track. Traditionally this should be connected to the pickups that collect power from the LEFT rail
• ORANGE WIRE – this is to connect the decoder to one of the motor brushes. There is no “normal” left or right for this one, as motors do not always face the same way in the chassis. Don’t worry – if the loco runs backwards, simply swap for the Gray wire OR use the instructions to change CV’s to make the loco run the other way (easy and works every time)
• GRAY WIRE – this is to pick up power from the other motor brush.
IMPORTANT – Red and Black wires must NEVER share a connection with the Orange or Gray wires. Nor should the Gray and Orange wires ever share a connection with the pickups in any way. Fail to check or ignore this and you will destroy your decoder immediately – The result of this contact, no matter how slight, is usually a puff of smoke and a black hole in one of the decoder IC’s.
• BLUE WIRE – This wire is COMMON to all other “accessory: or lighting wires. It is always POSITIVE, and is the common partner for every function.
• WHITE WIRE – “Front lights/functions”. To connect the headlights or “front” function, use the white NEGATIVE wire and the BLUE POSITIVE wire. How your decoder controls this wire will be clearly stated in the instructions.
• YELLOW WIRE – “Rear Lights/functions”. To connect the rear lights or “Rear” function, use the Yellow NEGATIVE wire and the BLUE POSITIVE wire. How your decoder controls this wire will be clearly stated in the instructions. Please note as follows:
o Rear light functions can often be used for things like firebox flicker on steam loco’s\
o If the function needs more than 100mA, you can parallel two functions to make a higher power function – ie Yellow+ white to one side of the smoke unit, blue to the other side.
o Lighting can be configured to be manually or automatically reversed, plus MANY other options.
Check your manual, and if they don’t light as expected suspect the need to switch them on at the controller!
• GREEN WIRE – “any other function” including lights or accessory control. Use the Green NEGATIVE wire and the BLUE POSITIVE wire. How your decoder controls this wire will be clearly stated in the instructions. Usually 100mA Max
• PURPLE WIRE – “any other function” including lights or accessory control. Use the Purple NEGATIVE wire and the BLUE POSITIVE wire. How your decoder controls this wire will be clearly stated in the instructions. Usually 100mA Max
• BROWN or STRIPED WIRE – “another optional function” for use with any lighting or accessory of 100mA or less. Rare, but useful for complex MU or diesel lighting
SHORT Circuits and HEAT kill decoders!
Be sure that NO active part of a decoder (and that’s ALL if the tracks and components) and NO join in a wire can short out on any other “live” part of the wiring OR the loco chassis. Use “heat-shrink” on wire joins, and insulate adjacent chassis parts with electrical tape or plastic sheet.
ALSO be aware that if you are “Maxing out” the decoder with a hungry motor and a load of lamps etc, it WILL be close to max output and WILL get hot eventually. Heat KILLS.
With regard to decoder “heating”, we also strongly suggest the following.
(1) Make sure track voltage is 14 volts or lower on 4mm scale or smaller – no more is needed, despite the crazy voltages on some units (ROCO for example is set at 22 volts!) and higher track voltage both encourages “runaways and strange control problems” AND greatly heats decoders.
(2) If it can be done safely, try to position decoders hard against a large metal lump like the chassis – Whilst it MUST of course be insulated from the decoder electrically, the mass of metal will help to draw away some heat.
(3) If you MUST load the decoder up, do NOT mount it on the motor – motors heat up too, and the combined result may be enough to cause premature failure.
MY opinion – Important Specs!
• Make sure the decoder brand is NMRA compliant, and generally AVOID stripped down cheapies.
• Stay with DCC, not train-set brands, no matter WHO claims to have made them. Think about it – if a brand that costs X makes a decoder for another brand, and they then sell it at LESS than X – what has been left out?
• Avoid “Badge engineered” decoders – (Means made by one company, sold under another companies name) Just like the “train-set brands” the same decoder direct from the primary manufacturer MUST be better value cost wise – there is one less profit margin in the way after all.
• Avoid ANY decoder without silent/supersonic/high frequency drive. Motors run sweeter, quieter, better and much cooler with a silent drive decoder. How cheap is a non-silent drive decoder if your locomotive motor lasts less time because of the coarse drive pulses – and it WILL fail MUCH sooner, you know. Silent drive is a MUST for good long term reliable performance.
• SIZE Matters – For smaller installs I’ve personally standardized on the very small TCS M-1 because it has all the features I need for my hand-built brass loco’s AND a superb motor drive with a ton of power handling. SMALL RULES when it comes to decoders – an easy fit means easy install and wiring after all!
• Look at the Warranty and backup very critically. Warranty varies from “totally Goof proof” to “until you install it”. The difference is extreme, & as we ALL make mistakes, a bit of free “Insurance” is well worth having!
• Avoid decoders with only ONE function. Apart from the fact they will NOT be silent drive, they will be limited in application. Fully functioning decoders such as the TCS T-1 have everything at the same price or lower than those “stripped down jobs” that are so often taken up by new DCC’ers, and offer better value, better performance and better flexibility in application.
• Look for DECODER LOCK as a function – it makes multiple decoder installs a breeze, and is a great aid to control for things such as “loco plus coach lighting”.
There are LOTS more issues, depending on your needs. Do YOU have an opinion on this – please feel free to email me and “add your thoughts” to the list.
OK – time to look at “The Second 5” of this list… Now we are looking for more specific issues, and planning to get the tools out and do some install work. Hope this helps!
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The locomotive
It doesn’t matter whether its Z, N, HO, 00, O/7mm, G or any other scale or gauge… it MUST run OK on DC if its to run OK on DCC. That means reasonably good pickups, Wheel back-to-back set OK for smooth running on the rails and through turnouts/points, clean wheels.
It also means a clean motor (no oily build-up, clean commutator, clean slots in the commutator, good brushes, oiled gearbox, oiled axle bearings, no binding in steam loco valve gear…etc…etc…
If you HAVEN’T given your loco a “Pre-DCC service” do it NOW. Before you add an expensive decoder, and before you create a problem because your loco wasn’t ready for the transition to happen.
The following is a big list that looks a bit intimidating. I’m NOT trying to frighten you off – just give you the chance to learn what MIGHT await the unwary installer. DO bear in mind that MOST of the loco’s you will install have NO problems at all – this is just a set of precautionary checks that MAY be needed especially if your loco is “older” or “hand-made brass”. Most “off the shelf loco’s are very DCC friendly and install will be EASY.
NEXT: Take the top off and LOOK carefully. Where does the wiring go to/from. Which pickup goes to where. Are the brushes insulated OK, where can I put the decoder, what are the lights, LED or bulb – do I want to ADD more lights – where will I run the wires?
Make a simple drawing – and a list of things to do. A check list, just like the Mechanic fills out when he services you car – He does it so he can bill you as much as possible – YOU should do it because if you miss one step you could end up with a frustrating failure – or a dead decoder.
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Older locos
Do check the current draw! If the motor draws over an amp, choose a 2 amp max decoder such as the TCS T Series. Service the motor and see if it runs smoother – if so it will probably also run at a slightly lower current draw. Be careful hopw many other accessories you add to a loco with a high current motor – A decoder power rating is always for the TOTAL of motor drive + accessories.
If the loco draws much over an amp – consider replacing it if possible – with a modern can motor. Running will get better, and your decoder will appreciate it!
Does the loco use incandescent bulbs? If so, plan to replace them with LED’s – MUCH less current draw, incredible reliability, better quality lighting, ZERO heating problems to damage plastic loco bodies or brass loco paintwork.
Is there a capacitor on the motor: If so, cut it out or remove it – it will stop good slow running, and will interfere with motor drive options like BEMF or the TCS “DITHER”.
Does the lighting rely on “reverse of DCC” or track voltage? If so, plan to rewire so ALL lighting is via the decoder – full control, dimmable levels and a much better “realistic operational possibility” will result.
Is it an open frame motor? If so, check that both brushes can be insulated from the frame of the motor. 99% of the time this will be easy – that 100th time, consider replacing the motor with a modern “Can” motor for easier DCC conversion and of course better and smoother running.
Is the chassis used to collect power? If so, think how to insulate the motor brushes from the frame 100% reliably. Also explore pickup options – can you make insulate pickups to render the chassis dead – NOT always necessary, but a VERY GOOD idea if you hope to double-head or “Consist” the loco with others! Live “chassis to chassis” contact can MELT couplers!
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Newer locos
Does the wiring use those “clips” to hold it in place? If so, plan to replace them with soldered connections – unsoldered wires are a recipe for unreliable performance!
Is there a capacitor on the motor: If so, cut it out or remove it – it will stop good slow running, and will interfere with motor drive options like BEMF or the TCS “DITHER”. NOTE: Newer loco's may have "chip-type" capacitors (surface mount) on the PCB, and there MAY be more than one. If you are NOT sure, ask a question on a DCC E-group about that particular loco - someone will have done it, and they'll be able to tell you where to look.
Does the loco have a DCC socket – if so, DON'T assume it is OK - Sadly, Mfrs sometimes mess it up, so still check carefully to be sure there are no bad solder joints etc, before U plug in. ALSO – be aware that not all DCC ready loco’s have DCC ready bulbs in the light circuit. If you loco HAS an incandescent bulb, run it without the body on and se how hot it gets on DCC voltages – if it gets warm, replace it with an LED or add a resistor – HOT bulbs don’t last long – and DO melt plastic bodies!
Does the loco use incandescent bulbs? If so, plan to replace them with LED’s – MUCH less current draw, incredible reliability, better quality lighting, ZERO heating problems to damage plastic loco bodies or brass loco paintwork.
------>>>>>>>> Click HERE to see a range of LED’s with correct colouring for modelling use in a range of sizes (Prototpe white / Golden white)
Does the lighting rely on “reverse of DCC” or track voltage? If so, plan to rewire so ALL lighting is via the decoder – full control, dimmable levels and a much better “realistic operational possibility” will result.
Is there a complex PCB with lighting and other functions in place? If so, and you are a bit confused as to the next step, Use the WEB to get data. Email me if you like, or do a search using google.. for example “DCC install in Proto 2000 E7”. OR – why not join a DCC “user group”. There WILL be diagrams showing how to do the modification, photo’s too – as well as many users out there with the answer… and it’s a great way to “meet other DCC’ers” and learn about DCC too.
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Lighting
This is a huge subject, as each countries prototype loco’s have differing light types and configurations and use lighting very differently.
Similarly, in model terms, lighting is well catered for in US and European prototypes, but UK or Australian based locos’ are often very poorly served when it comes to illumination. I cannot hope to cover more than a fraction of this area, but will do my best, and provide a few useful “links”.
Of course, DCCconcepts supply special LED’s to create Loco, passenger coach and layout lighting – and we have some exclusive items at very competitive prices. Our links to these pages are:
We have some useful lighting “tips” on our website. Take a look at:
US loco lighting: I can think of no better website than http://www.trainweb.org/gyra/ as a reference for US locomotive lighting. This site lists each type of specialized lighting, describes its actions and purpose and give a HUGE reference for the modeller.
Of course, almost all NMRA compliant decoders allow all these specialized lights to be activated on your models, so US modellers “have it made” when it comes to this area.
TIP: The current (post October 2004) TCS decoders now have a superb degree of control for LED dimming – far better than ANY other decoder I have come across – ever!
Australian loco lighting: This varied widely “State by State” however much Australian practice, particularly “Post Steam”, was based on US initiatives. No website comes to mind, however, for ALL modellers of Australian prototype, I would strongly suggest contacting and joining the AMRA branch in your state – each branch has an excellent library plus many knowledgeable members who can point you in the right direction.
AMRA’s web address is: http://www.amra.asn.au/
UK loco lighting: Here is where I confess to being a “Steam Era” modeller first and foremost when it comes to the railways of the UK, and therefore I am NOT the most helpful with diesel lighting! Steam era modellers will be excited by working loco lamps though – DO take a look at and find the “Royal Scot” with working DCC controlled lamps – as well as a “how to” story on how I made them.
I do have some other helpful links though:
http://www.electricnose.co.uk/index.html
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DCCUK/
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Pickup
The ability of the locomotive to cleanly and reliably contact the track to receive information and to provide power for movement is THE critical area for DCC and good loco performance. Most poor running loco’s are in fact fine – they just have lousy wheel or pickup contact because of accumulated gumk, corrosion, oxidization or even protective coatings applied in manufacturing (Yes, MANY loco’s are “ready to fail” out of the box because of careless cleaning or added protective coatings ex factory!)
Here are a few tips:
Inspect your loco carefully, and clean the wheels: I prefer a combination of cotton buds with MEK or similar solvents, followed by a fiberglass brush to burnish them or remove stubborn spots.
• Clean the wheels treads carefully – clean the fillet where the flange meets the wheel too
• Clean the back of the wheels
• Clean any pickups, and make very sure they are contacting the wheel reliably. Tweak them outward slightly to improve contact if it looks like they even MIGHT lose contact occasionally
• If you have some to hand, apply a bit of “contact enhancer” like rail Zip, or similar product sold in electronic stores for cleaning and protecting switch contacts.
Polish all pickup surfaces: To work at their best, pickup surfaces must be smooth as well as clean. If there is any form of pitting or plating on a pickup surface such as the back of a wheel (those pesky short-circuits as the wheels cross turnouts/points are a prime cause of pitting) then you should polish it smooth. I do this by running the loco upside down and gently applying a polishing stick made from a bit of thin strip-wood or styrene which has had 1200 grit wet and dry paper stuck to it. (Also good for polishing the commutator of open frame motors – you’ll be amazed how well they run when polished perfectly)
Clean axles and chassis bearing surfaces if these are used for power pickup: If the loco can be disassembled to do this, great... if not, be sure that as far as possible any accumulated gunk is removed. Perfect power requires a clean axle in a clean bearing for reliability.
Make temporary connections permanent: If the loco and tender share pickup in any way, and there is a “live drawbar” connection relying on a contact between pin and hole or anything similar, you will greatly help reliability by permanently wiring the loco and tender together. If there are a couple of diesels that will be permanently coupled, I strongly suggest that perfect performance will come from a quality permanent wiring between them or perhaps a set of quality connectors linking all pickups.
This will have the added bonus of allowing accessory functions from a single decoder to provide all required lighting etc.
ADD pickups wherever possible: If the steam loco picks up power from one side and the tender the other, or the loco picks up power and the motor is in the tender, ADD pickups. This is particularly helpful with locomotives that do not have any form of equalization, as in a rigid framed loco the slightest twist in track means that only two of the main wheels will be in contact…and if they aren’t the two with pickups… the loco will stall or hesitate.
Fine Phosphor bronze strip is available as follows:
UK – Mainly trains in Watchet, Somerset (perhaps the best mail-order “parts place” on the planet. They can be found on the web at www.mainlytrains.com
USA – Tichy Train Group of Plainview NY. They have an excellent range and sell high quality phosphor bronze wire and strip in USA. They can be found on the web at www.tichytraingroup.com
SUPER TIP: Better quality pickups can be made by buying some plain gold “keeper” type earrings from a jeweler, and soldering a small segment to the tip of the phosphor bronze contact. This option is cheaper than you think, as one pair of earrings will make many, many pickups.
STILL have questions? – feel free to email me – click HERE
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